A fellow author retraces how it was authenticated. Six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Influence. Skip to Main Content Skip to Search. News Corp is a global, diversified media and information services company focused on creating and distributing authoritative and engaging content and other products and services. Dow Jones. To Read the Full Story. Subscribe Sign In.
Enter Galliano. The result was one of the most adrenaline-inducing brand revamps in fashion history. Under Galliano, each Dior collection was a fantastical mixture of history and pop influences. His runway shows weren't presentations of clothing but rather elaborate and theatrical experiences similar to seeing a live play or going to the movies. Models walked the runway in wearable art, including radical headgear created by British milliner Stephen Jones, surrounded by larger-than-life sets created from Galliano's exotic research trips.
He equated high fashion with the spectacular in a way that the industry had never seen before. Galliano considered his Dior haute couture runways as "rupture" moments for the house. But you have to have the Romantic—they die for that, my ladies.
He sent billowing, bright fabrics down the runway alongside Chinese dancers and circus performers. While Maria Grazia Chiuri has brought back modern iterations of Galliano-for-Dior-isms like the saddle bag and the newspaper print, the sense of fantasy has dropped lower on the Dior's identifying characteristics.
The modern Dior woman is an ergonomist like Chiuri herself, focused on the practical and the comfortable. On one hand, the practical and comfortable feels more realistic to consumers, particularly as we adjust to a new quarantine-era normal. For Galliano, whose boundless creativity compels him to look ahead rather than dwell, it was a rare insight into a designer mind that knows no comparison. Today, we celebrate his 60th birthday.
By Anders Christian Madsen. It begins with a familiar tale: the prodigal child from Gibraltar, raised humbly in south London, bullied at school and cast as an outsider, who would defy it all and become among the most illustrious couturiers of our time. Rather, it is exactly what Galliano reflected on in his speech this week: the eventual craving for the antithesis to all those things — for anonymity — which has seen him reinvent himself with diametrical timing, and continuously inspire and innovate a fashion world in rapid evolution.
After the recovery Galliano went through following his exit from fashion in it was as if his entire outlook transformed. Where his magnificent oeuvre at Dior had been entrenched in history and the grandeur of the past, at Maison Margiela he turned his omniscient binoculars to the future — in both aesthetic and in spirit.
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